An upbeat energy of rebellion creates a sense of surprise in Marni Edition for winter 2012. The tested classics of the well-to-do wardrobe, from the pleated skirt to the demure coat, are interpreted with a graphic sensibility. Nods to iconic youth cultures and the proclivity for sweet decoration clash harmonically in the typical Marni way, with touches of neon color and plastic embellishment adding a layer of pop to the mix.

The silhouette is classic, to the knee or to the ankle, with an idea of addition. Juxtapositions of fabric and fur, as well as neoprene collars and cuffs used as accent highlight the sum of part in each outfit, creating visual and tactile accumulations. Houndstooth or check coats sport fox sleeves; shearling bikers are worn with waffle knits and tailored shorts.

Mannish car coats with embroidered collars, quilted wool anoraks worn as jumpers convey an idea of sophisticated utilitarianism. Intarsia knits have a sporty feel contradicted by fur stoles with an insouciant ladylike air.

There is a constant tension between sleek control and insouciant abandonment: jacquard lamè ensembles, for instance, are toned down by the masculine allure of bonded coats and neat trousers.

The color palette is dense, with intense interruptions: notes of grey, black, tangerine, amber, brown, cigar lighten up in flashes of cobalt blue, lipstick red, teddy yellow. Neon injections of pink, yellow and green pop up suddenly. Prints are twisted: flower stencils, people patterns, geometric gravity patterns. Fabrics are compact and sturdy: double faced check and kilt wool, wool jacquard, tartan jersey, coated technical jersey, flannel, jacquard silk. Felt-bonded leather and teddy shearling suggest resistance.

Accessories include classic loafers given a huge upgrade, golfers meet rockabilly, oversized pumps with metallic toes. Bags are buckled purses and flat totes, lunch box bags in modern matt leather, sheepskin totes with hard leather finishes. Glasses are pressed plastic in candy colors.

Bijoux are collars, cuffs and broaches made of crocheted polyethylene mixed with resin and colored glass elements, necklaces and bracelets made of resin boules and stars, deco resin earrings in childish shapes. Broaches are central to the collection, with their quirky geometric shapes highlighted by mixes of resin, acetate, glass and neoprene.