Control and precision; grace that is dry, assertive, with a hint of tension. An idea of graphic composition permeates the Marni collection for f/w 12/13: pure lines, decisive volumes. As if obeying to a precise layering plan, outfits have a constructivist feel with a sleek outlook and a tactile intensity. Shapes are off-kilter; color is used for its density and intensity as a design element; a restrained take on opulence and an accent on fur as punctuating texture subtly alters the balance. The result is firm, at once sober and twisted.
The silhouette is neat and precise, to-the-knee, with a dropped waist. There’s an idea of clothing as soft, architectural element. Exact capes create a firm halo around the body. Decoration turns into construction, playing with the weight of surfaces: rounded fur collars land on top of leather coats, or are worn in place of neckpieces; panels of mink and felted wool recreate the strictness of a man’s coat. An air of grace and rigor runs through: the neck is always covered; brocade tops worn with matching pants are both sumptuous and severe; stole jackets secured to the waist restrict and protect. Prints are used as an accent: a single outsized flower, papiro jacquards and brocades; fur is hand cut in intarsia to recreate tweed and piano stripes. Evening shapes are sculptural, rounded on the hips, highlighted by dense embroideries with a mechanical edge. Gold metal circles with applications and flowery rhinestone brooches run decoratively along the neckline; jewelry becomes an integral element of the garment.
The palette has notes of butter, crimson red, clear blue interspersed with touches of pink, blush, tan and broken with notes of black, tobacco and saffron. Fabrics have a compact hand: silk wool double-face, lurex jacquard, wool crepe. Exaggerated, oversized patent leather and snakeskin add weight and presence.
Accessories include kabuki soles in velvet with gold metal toe caps and lacquered platforms in velvet piped in gold. Bags have a geometric presence: rectangular styles with a curvilinear handle and a shoulder strap, small doctor bags with intarsia motifs, meshed leather bags on hard frames. Sunglasses are over and undersized.
Alessandro C. Busseni (Lecco, 1980), he is responsible for all aspects of communicationdeals with communication at 360°. In Over the years he has collaborated with Interaction Ivrea, Interactiondesign-Lab, Hearst Lifestyle Media, Leftloft, Domus Academy. As a small problems solver, he is in charge of is responsible for special projects for EdizioniZero. He holds courses and workshops at Naba, IED and Politecnico dithe Milan Polytechnic Milano. Since 2009 he has been teaching es design at the Design School of NABA.
Letter C, in his name, stands for “Cicciapalla”, the nickname by with which he signs his illustrations for magazines and publishing. His spare time is dedicated to performances and video installations.
The story of the doll began in 2008 when Consuelo finds her on a stall in New York. The doll arrived in Milan and immediately became an integral part/mascot/icon/model and muse of the collection Winter Edition which was about to born. From that day the doll is the main theme of all the Edition collections. Jumps from one product to another, becoming the image of a shirt or of a bag, a ceramic pin with a bathing suit and a bathing cap, a rag doll dressed in the clothes of the collection….
This issue of Anticamera is entirely dedicated to her.
The doll comes to life with stories told by 4 Italian illustrators and photographs taken by Marni_Lab for an issue that wants to make you smile.
At the end of this issue find listed all the products with the doll.
The Marni space at Printemps has been designed according to Marni Edition concept that develops here in one of its different expressions.
A perforated yellow lacquered steel sheet covers the surface of two pre-existing panels placed at two opposite sides of the space. On it have been inserted some shelves – also in yellow lacquered perforated steel sheet – so that the whole panel constitutes the accessories display. Using black steel bands have been created big rectangles as pattern on the perforated panels, so that to recall the texture of the carpet laying at the center of the space. The carpet is indeed designed with squared and rectangular patterns that echo the print of some Marni textures and it is the most colorful element of the space set up. At the three sides of the carpet have been placed three modular free standing rails made out of rough steel tubular, other element typical of the Edition concept. The visible brushed S/S hinges screwed both on their top and on their bottom allow to set each rail in different ways and to change its orientation to the space. One single modular element which compose the rails has been placed on its own moving it back from the centre. In the space have been located 5 free-standing mannequins made in natural fiberglass with S/S bases. Their disposition is such that 4 of them – turned outwards – delimit the angles of the space so that coming from each side of the mall is possible to see one mannequin and the garment displayed on it. The fifth mannequin is instead located at the centre inside the space delimited by the rails. The only white element is the rectangular vinyl upholstered seat placed very close to the pre-existing column which is also white, almost to make them look like a single element. As for every Edition space, the peculiarity of the set up consists of display versatility and in this case a special attention has been placed on the echo of the furniture elements and carpet design to the pattern printed on textures.
Marni is pleased to announce the opening of the new MARNI EDITION space at the department store La Rinascente.
The interior design follows the concept of the Marni Edition stores in New York, Hong Kong and London: tubular rails in rough steel, distinctive elements of the Marni Edition concept, present the collection or carry the steel shelves to display the accessories collection. The idea of modularity and flexibility, part of the Marni Edition concept, takes shape in the curved rails placed at the centre of the store. The modular steel rails are linked by visible brushed stainless steel hinges screwed on top and on bottom, allowing to set each rail in different ways in the space. The whole perimeter has been covered with backlit transparent alveolar panels on which an adhesive film has been applied, whose print recalls the fabric pattern of yellow squares with black frames of the recent collection. The floor is covered with a soft carpeting in contrasting colours. The ceiling conveys a strong impact, featuring three ‘islands’ in perforated steel, while mannequins in fiberglass float throughout the space.
A sense of risk with the taste for sophisticated restraint. The Marni Resort collection is spirited and personal. Constructions are graphic, with curved volumes defining an archetypal feminine line. Cropped lengths and abstract details taken from the Western repertoire insert an element of dissonance. The result is graceful, yet full of modernist tension …
MARNI RESORT EVENINGWEAR 2012-2013 COLLECTION
Languid yet severe, with a twisted oriental flavour, the Marni Resort Eveningwear is mysteriously decadent …