Free-spirited individuality and rule clash harmonically in Marni Edition for summer 2013. There is both carelessness and an appreciation for the exactitude of the uniform: sturdy outerwear and loungewear inspired pieces, masculine shapes and feminine ease, bold graphic prints and naïve, slightly childish motifs mix and mingle in a light way. The result is exact yet totally unpredictable.
The silhouette is neat: to the knee or to the ankle, flaring slightly from the waists down. Bonded and compact, the trench-coat is streamlined to the perfect architectural shape: cropped and closed with snap buttons, it turns into a jacket; knee-skimming and belted, it is worn as a dress. There is an idea of graphic addition in the way pieces are made and mixed: mannish dinner shirts with contrast collars are paired with A-line skirts, either short or long; contrast-sleeve tops are worn over tailored Bermuda shorts. Technical details used in a decorative way give a sleek, clean polish to simple pieces: contrasting bonded bands run along the hem of A-line skirts and pure tops, adding weight; frills create visual texture. Slouchy pants and double-breasted jacket hint at the masculine wardrobe. Piped printed ensembles and neat polo-shirt dresses mix school uniform with the dreamy carelessness of a pajama.
The color palette is essential: notes of navy blue, cream, light blue are accented with shades bright red and Formica green; white and watery hues of pink and green create melting textures. Black recurs as a graphic accent. Prints are either geometric – lines, orderly compositions – or feisty scribbles: leaves, flowers, little animals. Compact fabrics accent the precision of the silhouette: cotton poplin, cotton jersey, technical voile, crêpe; bonded two tone leather.
Accessories include patent mary-janes and pumps with a stack heel, flat sandals with crossing bands and a thick sole, sling-back loafers. Bags play with opposite notions of grace and aggressiveness: purses and totes with studded details, small clutches and petite graphic bags with a small handle, oversized pvc pursed and leather models studded with crystals. Glasses have mirrored lenses and acetate arms.
Bijoux are recycled PET necklaces like clusters of flowers and geometric elements; resin necklaces made of pendants shaped like flowers or animals; pvc studded collars. Animal brooches create quirky accents. Pendant earrings are big and geometric, with a modernist feel.