SPRING / SUMMER 2013 FASHION SHOW

Firmness. Sparseness as elegance. The new Marni collection is a weightless exploration of volume. Form is reduced to its pure essence, laid bare to expose the precision of the cut and beauty of the fabric.

Clothes stand away from the body, gently drawing moving contours around it. They float, fold and turn, ever so lightly. Silhouettes are clean and sculpted: A-line, trapeze and to the knee. The line is effortless yet compact. Light and air play with shapes and surfaces. Checks on a transparent coat are a jacquard tape that looks almost suspended over the body, the effect both firm and opaque.

A sense of spontaneity is focal: dresses look like fabric was folded, rather than cut, into the final shape; pleats and peplums create sensuous additions on tops and skirts. The sum of elements subtracts weight rather than adding it. Straight and round are juxtaposed just as the front and the back are: a square top is paired with a flared skirt; what looks like a sleeveless coat turns sideways into a blouson.

The tension between delicacy and strictness adds nuance: short-sleeved shirts and matching pants are as efficient as uniforms; basques bring focus on the hips; flowery patterns are feisty.

Prints highlight and gently distort the neatness of the design. Checks and sequences of sliced dots have the hypnotic rhythm of Anni Albers Bauhaus experiments. Block flowers and simultaneous motifs entertain the eye.

The color palette is essential, with delicate accents and deep peaks: white, black, dark green, touches of aqua, pale grey, orange, red, purple. Firm, compact fabrics enhance the bare pureness of the lines: cotton canvas, tape jacquard, bonded leather.

Accessories have a modernist feel. Pointed open-toe slingbacks with a metal wedge and wooden platform flats resemble sinuous architectures. Bags are precise and boxy styles with padlocks, rectangular models in geometric weaves of leather and pvc, oversized purses.