Convention and rebellion. Classicism and subversion. The Marni Men’s collection draws its energy from the extremes of the 1970s. Elements of the decade are isolated, filtered and re-imagined: the result is a strong neat line full of tension.
Precision runs throughout; pieces are distilled to their timeless, un-fussy essence: the duffel coat; the parka; the V-neck; the oxford shirt; the slim suit buttoned high.
The apparent properness, however, is constantly, subtly contradicted. Weasel is used on the back of the short mac; suit trousers are cuffed, or have adjustable straps at the hem; bonding gives knits a firm feel. Constructions are graphic: nylon inserts highlight pockets flaps on a jacket; contrast sleeves and cuffs create a sense of structure on knits.
The amalgamation of sport and formality adds another layer of tension: a grey suit jacket sports an external duvet layer. Fur is minimal yet functional: an astrakhan scarf; fingerless otter gloves and panels on coats and jackets. The seasons boot is a confident and tough finish to the look.
Prints create structure: dogstooth, micro grids, bold stripes on neat shirts. This season the ubiquitous Marni floral print is overblown and becomes ambiguous almost like bleach splashed on trousers.
The colour palette is deep and moody: tones of mustard, burgundy, raspberry, camel, petrol and midnight blue, charcoal. Fabrics are dry: wool felt, twisted wool, technical polyester, cotton gabardine. Accessories: double-strap boots, zippered portfolios with embossed dogstooth motifs, washed leather duffel bags.