MEN’S F/W 2013-2014

Convention and rebellion. Classicism and subversion. The Marni Men’s collection draws its energy from the extremes of the 1970s. Elements of the decade are isolated, filtered and re-imagined: the result is a strong neat line full of tension.

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

Precision runs throughout; pieces are distilled to their timeless, un-fussy essence: the duffel coat; the parka; the V-neck; the oxford shirt; the slim suit buttoned high.

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

The apparent properness, however, is constantly, subtly contradicted. Weasel is used on the back of the short mac; suit trousers are cuffed, or have adjustable straps at the hem; bonding gives knits a firm feel. Constructions are graphic: nylon inserts highlight pockets flaps on a jacket; contrast sleeves and cuffs create a sense of structure on knits.

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

The amalgamation of sport and formality adds another layer of tension: a grey suit jacket sports an external duvet layer. Fur is minimal yet functional: an astrakhan scarf; fingerless otter gloves and panels on coats and jackets. The seasons boot is a confident and tough finish to the look.

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

Prints create structure: dogstooth, micro grids, bold stripes on neat shirts. This season the ubiquitous Marni floral print is overblown and becomes ambiguous almost like bleach splashed on trousers.

MARNI MEN'S FALL WINTER 2013-14

The colour palette is deep and moody: tones of mustard, burgundy, raspberry, camel, petrol and midnight blue, charcoal. Fabrics are dry: wool felt, twisted wool, technical polyester, cotton gabardine. Accessories: double-strap boots, zippered portfolios with embossed dogstooth motifs, washed leather duffel bags.

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