Last Sunday, on the occasion of the second Marni show, an electrical snafu prevented the reproduction of the soundtrack as well as the correct functioning of the lights. The show took place in absolute silence, in natural light, with amazing warmth and attention from the audience, transforming an accident in a moment, for all, of pure magic.
Silencing the urge to minimize, doing away with straight lines and plain firmness, the Marni collection for s/s 14 delves into a romantic territory while keeping restraint and austerity as guiding principles. The intuitive balance of opposites creates a sense of presence that is evanescent as it is affirmative: the overall weightlessness – both material and metaphoric – is punctuated by the weight of exaggeration, colorful thong platforms and the agonistic mystery of shading visors. Lines mold, curves define, folds get a softly sculptural treatment. Surfaces gain movement in a constant play of modulating densities. The result is feminine, with a tough angle: soft in appearance, assertive in spirit, with a certain boldness.
The mood is airy. Everything gets a new lightness that creates floating volumes or an elongated line: full skirts that reach the calf, coats that graphically bare the shoulders bringing attention to the neck. Cuts curve around the body sculpting a silhouette of complex simplicity: darts, folds, panels shape movement without blocking it onto trousers, dresses and skirts. Textural ruptures bring an element of tactility into the play of shapes and proportions: rouches that bloom frenetically around the hips, tridimensional flowers swarming allover coats, skirts and even tote bags.
The eye is constantly entertained and touch is stimulated while creating experimental forms that keep memories of archetypally feminine shapes. The waist is cinched by belts with a sturdy technical feel, the contrast occasionally highlighted with embroideries. Sport is a distant yet palpable presence that puts romanticism off-kilter: a bomber jackets worn over a skirt with a flowery peplum; stripy bands edging densely embroidered tops. Fabrics explore an idea of weight that can be amplified or minimized: running from sheer to dense, from toile to denim to crepe to compact patent leathers, they create modulating surfaces.
Jagged flowers motifs capture the affirmative femininity of the collection: in the form of small or overblown prints, as well as tactile textures. With its creamy whites, blacks, light greys the color palette keeps a womanly austerity that is broken by sensual jolts of reds and notes of deep green.
Accessories mix decoration and utility: embroideries swarm on mini sportsac worn as clutches and on the iconic Marni Trunk, in check patterns; technical ribbons mix with cabochons and figurative elements on necklaces, rings and earrings have bold shapes, while acetate glasses with angular contours have lenses that look suspended in void.