Marni Fall Winter 2014-15 backstage
Marni Fall Winter 2014-15 Runway sweatshirt in two-toned, bonded jersey with short, oversized, and tube-shaped sleeves. Relaxed fit and raw edge. Crewneck and lateral panels under the sleeves in contrasting colours. Visible zipper closure in gilded metal. Topstitching on borders.
Runway long skirt in two-toned, bonded jersey with slit, raw edge and concealed zipper closure covered on the inside by grosgrain. A patchwork of the same fabric, used inside out to show the two colours, is applied onto staggered layers, creating sculptured, voluminous flounces.
Runway coat in two-toned, bonded jersey. Straight-cut model with V-neck and pockets. A patchwork of the same fabric, used inside out to show the two colours, is applied on staggered layers, creating voluminous, sculptured flounces.
Runway sweatshirt in two-toned, bonded jersey, raw-edged and V-neck with oversized, tube-shaped half sleeves. Relaxed fit. Lateral panels under the sleeves are in contrasting colour. Visible zipper closure in gilded metal. Topstitching on borders.
Runway miniskirt in two-toned, bonded jersey, raw-edged and darted. Concealed zipper closure, covered on the inside by grosgrain. A patchwork of the same fabric is applied onto staggered layers, creating sculptured, voluminous flounces.
The Marni f/w 14/15 collection includes two prints that reproduce a work of German artist Magnus Plessen.
Interested in topics such as perception, structure, transition, driven in his creative quest by an exploration on material density, Plessen moves fluidly between abstraction and figuration. His paintings are made with a personal technique which consists in the systematic addition and removal of large sections of painting in order to define both figures and background. Resolute brushstrokes and equally firm erasures characterize the compositions, resulting in a dense yet evanescent consistency.
The purpose of the artist is to convey emotions and feelings, not to depict reality as it is. The method is rigorous and dynamic. As a brand that contaminates itself with art, Marni feels an affinity with Plessen. The German artist’s paintings are in fact close to the experimentation on forms, colors and materials that characterizes the f/w collection.
Two prints have been made, coming from the Zwei Figuren (2005) piece.
The painting’s double subject was split into two different patterns, both faithfully reproduced on radzmir, satin viscose and jersey for garments and on leather for shoppers.
MARNI METAL TRUNK – Fall Winter 2014-15 backstage
Runway METAL TRUNK bag in brushed calfskin. Large bag with gilded metal snap-lock, like the lateral detailing. Shoulder strap with extension. Internal pocket, external pocket under the flap and external, open pocket, at the back.
Runway lace-up in brushed calfskin with tone-on-tone detailing at the back. Mounted onto leather sole with stitched welt. Removable tongue with gilded metal plate. Welt and heel in the same colour as the upper.
In crescendo: the new Marni collection gains intensity as it progresses. It is made of forms created by twisting, slicing, draping, pleating fabric onto the body. Surfaces are obtained by decorating, embellishing, cutting, bonding different elements together. The severity of shapes and the colorfulness of painterly motifs merge in a counterpoint of ease and deliberate exaggeration. In the occasion of the label’s 20th anniversary, the richness of diversity which is integral to the Marni aesthetic turns into a bold visual statement, strengthening the roots while propelling the spirit forward.
The progression draws an imaginary line from the organic and raw to the artificial and man-made. It starts from canvas and toile, plain and raw cut, to end up with a multiplication of embroideries, raffia appliqués, mirrors, crystals. The silhouette is vertical: defined by sculptural movements, clothes barely touch the body, swirling freely and asymmetrically around it. Outsized judo belts are tied at the waist, while elongated sleeves further enforce the tall, solemn line. The strictness of the plain, graphic tops is contradicted by the bright explosions of bonded pressed lacquered flowers and metallic touches on bonded leather blousons. Slices of chiffon are embroidered onto canvas to create dense flower textures.
The color palette builds up from hues of chalk, sand and charcoal to flashes of yellow, green, cyan, pink. Color is used as adornment. Fabrics have a firm, textural quality: cotton and linen canvas, raw silk, jacquard silk, double coated cotton. Prints explore the Marni world of flowers and geometries. Archive patterns are cut out and bonded into layered motifs.
Accessories carry an idea of utility. Sandals and shoes merge architectural shapes with technical details. Bags are folding zipper shoppers with resin handles, oversize duffles and shoulder bags with bonded leather appliqué flowers. Bijou progress from natural wood and resin collars and necklaces made of wooden beads covered in canvas to multiple-strand collars made of colorful technical ropes, resins and metal elements.
Marni SS2015 invite