Amplification, exaggeration, gentle distortion. The Marni collection for f/w 14/15 takes the defining elements of the Marni aesthetic and brings them on a higher scale while keeping restraint and severity as design principles and effortlessness as a form of expression. Volumes inflate, artisanality gets intricate, details are overblown in a constant play of firmness and softness, of padded densities and assertive weightlessness.
There is a sensorial element that plays with contradictions, inviting to reconsider with the hands what has been appreciated with the eyes. What looks heavy is in fact airy, and even embroideries on jacquard silk have a spongy feel. Sliced neoprene is used for dresses and skirts that swarm with ruches, trousers with curve cuts, tops that cocoon around the bust. Outsized hoods, lined in dyed fur, cover the entire back of neat blousons; massive industrial zippers recur as functional signs.
Big volumes and bold crops suggest protection. Metallic touches highlight the amalgamation of the artisanal and the industrial: a laminated sheepskin coat; metallic toes on shoes. In contrast, craft turns into an exaggeration of the organic. Prints have a gestural immediacy and a pictorial richness. The abstract figurations of German artist Magnus Plessen, whose singular style consists in adding and removing sections of paint to define shapes, are transported as prints onto simple pieces. With its whites, greys, camels, blacks and military greens broken by flashes of red and aqua blue the palette is pragmatic, with a twist. Fabrics have a sensually tactile quality: washed felt, alpaca felt, padded nylon, spongy embroidered silks, radzmir.
Accessories express pure design precision.
Marni’s iconic Trunk sports lustrous metal sides, while necklaces and rings have boldly deconstructed architectural shapes.
MARNI TRUNK is the iconic bag for the MARNI S/S 2014 collection
The MARNI TRUNK is inspired by Consuelo Castiglioni’s passion for bicycles, recalling the technical lines and design of the traditional bike wear.
It is offered in one shoulder style available in two sizes.
Volume is defined by the TRUNKs multiple compartments and fanned accordion profile. Its adjustable straps easily transform the bag from hand to shoulder unit.
MARNI TRUNK is constructed in an array of materials, mixing utility and decoration.
The bi-colored Saffiano leather, with hand lacquered contrasting trims, highlight the precise lines. Silk and cotton or Saffiano leather check pattern TRUNK features an embellished version with an embroidered ribbon with large rhinestones, conveying an eccentric touch.
The MARNI TRUNK is available in all MARNI boutiques and on www.marni.com
A far-ranging foray into masculine iconographies and the way they are expressed through clothes. Elements and obsessions running from sport to classic, workwear to tailoring, utility to luxury, army to office are taken apart, dissected and re-arranged in a mix that is quintessentially Marni: dry yet soulful, precise with a certain carelessness, graphic. The result is a comprehensive wardrobe that covers the needs and demands of daily life using what is known and familiar in an off-kilter kind of way. Cohesion comes through a loose sense of volume, deceptive textures, fur used as an accent.
The pillars of the masculine repertoire are distilled to their essence in a quest for soft classicism that keeps a slightly subcultural tingle: the tailored suit, slim and crisp, halfway between urban staple and work uniform; the crombie coat, seen in a textural vein; the trench coat, reduced to a blueprint; the bomber and the parka, occasionally morphed into one. Function creates forms with a stress on texture: goat fur is used for trousers and shorts worth a polar expedition; parkas are layered and extended; sweatpants with matching crewneck jumpers are actually knitted.
The fur collar recurs throughout, in and out of context, replacing the scarf to provide warmth in a graphic way. Thrown in the mix are elements that alter the whole balance with a tingle of the unexpected: printed silk shirts with matching ties worn under sturdy coats; knitted sleeves. The silhouette is soft yet firm: a vertical line highlighted by natural shoulders, topped with a work cap, with thick-soled shoes as a base.The classic color palette ranges from charcoal grays to camel, from blue to black to army green. Prints alternate phytomorphic motifs with dynamic grids. Fabrics are dry yet voluptuous to the touch: alpaca/wool blends; double-faced wool knit, light twisted flannel; washed technical polyester.
Lace-up derbies with thick rubber soles, oversize sheepskin totes and postman bags, astrakhan scarves and caps complete the look.