ANTICAMERA 06 ( the on-line Marni magazine )
SOON ONLINE on www.marni-anticamera.com !
Vibrant energy. A loose, natural attitude: upbeat, neat, fast. The Marni Men collection for s/s 15 continues taking elements from different worlds – sport, utility, tailoring – dissecting and assembling them in a graphic yet spontaneous language. It builds a wardrobe suited to the needs and demands of the contemporary urban wanderer. Forms have the bold assertiveness and the raw perfection of brutalist architecture; suiting and sports merge and morph, seamlessly, creating utilitarian pieces of clothing.
The accent on precision puts the focus on texture and color, defining a balance that is slightly askew, dynamic. The silhouette is loose yet controlled, with an airy sense of firmness. Light wool suits are worn under oversized dusters, rolled sleeves and contrasting nuances creating a play of juxtapositions.
Reversible sports blazers paired with shorts match function with ease. The iconic elements of the masculine wardrobe are distilled to their essence and then remixed with a geometric sensibility that is quintessentially Marni. The zip-up blouson, the bomber jacket, the collarless shirt-jacket, the short-sleeved shirt are addends of layerings and permutations, the sum of elements highlighted by the bold color combination. Suits have compact jackets and long lean trousers.
Prints recur as an assertive element on bonded sweatshirts, shirts and trousers both highlighting and deconstructing the architectural precision of the cuts. Inside-out construction have nonchalance. The dense color palette is rich in unexpected mixtures: tones of inky blue, deep green, grey, black and beige are accented with dashes of deep red, pale yellow, rust.
Prints have a gestural quality: scribbles, geometries, stripes and inky flowers. Fabrics are light and airy, yet firm: suiting wools, bonded jersey, parachute cotton.
The graphic tone of the collection carries on in the accessories.
Functional card and phone cases are worn around the neck adding another element of color and shape. Marni’s classic backpack is reimagined with another colorful play. Sandals with bold color and material mixes are a light-hearted addition to the silhouette. Canvas sneakers have rubber toe caps sliced into graphic bands.
Some of the prints reproduced on fabric and leather goods in the Marni Pre-Fall 2014 collection stem from an extensive research on Art Brut and Outsider Art: forms of artistic expression placed outside market and institutions, as to defy their restrictive logics, involving artists that are mainly autodidact, disabled, visionary and therefore often marginalized.
Marni’s interest for these artworks is a result of the formal freedom they exude and the sense of inclusion they create. As a brand that is contaminated by art, Marni approaches outsider art attracted by its borderless creativity and by the utter refusal of any impossibility.
Three artists have been involved, each one with his own language, all of them united by the use of color and formal spontaneity: Christophe Joubert and Francois-Xavier Tavy-Sacley, from France and Stefano Favaro, from Italy.
Marni contacted the artists through the associations that represent them. Three artists for three different associations: L’Esat Menilmontant; Personimages Association; Osservatorio Outsider Art.
PVC shopping bag | Francois-Xavier Tavy-Sacley
PVC shopping bag | Stefano Favaro
On May 14th 2014 Marni has won the International Award of the Accademia del Profumo in the category “Best niche product of female perfumes”. This award is the only Italian certificate for the most prestigious perfumery.
The event was hosted by Luciano Bertinelli, president of the Accademia del Profumo, and Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of Vogue Italy, who was also head of the jury.
The members of the jury were Asia Argento, Elisa Fuksas, Karolina Kurkova, Peter Lindbergh, Candela Novembre, Fabio Novembre, Alessandro Roja, Saturnino, Francesco Vezzoli.
_photo courtesy of Stefano Guindani Photo