Amplification, exaggeration, gentle distortion. The Marni collection for f/w 14/15 takes the defining elements of the Marni aesthetic and brings them on a higher scale while keeping restraint and severity as design principles and effortlessness as a form of expression. Volumes inflate, artisanality gets intricate, details are overblown in a constant play of firmness and softness, of padded densities and assertive weightlessness.
There is a sensorial element that plays with contradictions, inviting to reconsider with the hands what has been appreciated with the eyes. What looks heavy is in fact airy, and even embroideries on jacquard silk have a spongy feel. Sliced neoprene is used for dresses and skirts that swarm with ruches, trousers with curve cuts, tops that cocoon around the bust. Outsized hoods, lined in dyed fur, cover the entire back of neat blousons; massive industrial zippers recur as functional signs.
Big volumes and bold crops suggest protection. Metallic touches highlight the amalgamation of the artisanal and the industrial: a laminated sheepskin coat; metallic toes on shoes. In contrast, craft turns into an exaggeration of the organic. Prints have a gestural immediacy and a pictorial richness. The abstract figurations of German artist Magnus Plessen, whose singular style consists in adding and removing sections of paint to define shapes, are transported as prints onto simple pieces. With its whites, greys, camels, blacks and military greens broken by flashes of red and aqua blue the palette is pragmatic, with a twist. Fabrics have a sensually tactile quality: washed felt, alpaca felt, padded nylon, spongy embroidered silks, radzmir.
Accessories express pure design precision.
Marni’s iconic Trunk sports lustrous metal sides, while necklaces and rings have boldly deconstructed architectural shapes.
watch the video >